Modern Moro Blog

Kuta' Kastila' in Bongao

Kuta' Kastila' is a Tausog term for Spanish fort or garrison. Before the 60s, form here you have the full of Bongao Strait and Aguada Bay. Now, as one passes along Datu Halun St., towards the pier, nothing is visible. But if you enter the compound, the Day Care Center still shows its brick walls.

After the Spanish defeat, the garrison was occupied by the American forces. By the end of March, 1900, a regiment of the 23rd US Infantry occupied the garrison. The regiment left Jolo for service in Bongao on March 20, 1900.

In 1907, Florence Kimball Russel described what she saw in her book, "A Woman’s Journey Through the Philippines; On a Cable Ship that Linked the Strange Lands Seen En Route".

"Despite the fact of its remoteness from civilization, or perhaps because of it, we found Bongao most attractive. . . The garrison is situated on a mountainous spur of land running down steeply to the water. It is laid out like a park, the soldiers’ quarters, hospital, library, and storehouses being of bamboo and nipa, over which the men have trained vines and creeping plants, while before each door bloom beds of bright flowers."

"The officers’ quarters are built higher up on a wind-swept slope overlooking the bay, where it curves around the point of the island, and while these houses are picturesque from the outside, they are roughly finished within, the “banquet-hall,” as they dignified the mess, being especially al fresco. Over the extemporized sideboard, consisting of some rude shelves, on which were piled a heterogeneous collection of tinned fruits and vegetables, hung a motto which read “God Bless our Home. If you don’t like it, get out!” On the reverse side of this somewhat suggestive placard was the pleasing gastronomic intelligence, “Chicken today,” chicken forming the staple of diet at Bongao, as of course fresh meat is to be had only at the rarest intervals."

"There was but one company of infantry stationed at Bongao when we were there, comprising perhaps fifty men and three officers. Because of the two hundred miles of treacherous ocean between him and higher authority, the young captain acting as military governor was, so to speak, a small Czar, and he ruled an unique kingdom, untouched by civilization, and peopled entirely by ex-pirates or the descendants of pirates."

"The official letter-book of this functionary, at which he allowed us to peep, read like a story of adventure, while some of his own personal experiences, and those of the former commanding officer, seem almost incredible when away from the glamour of the place. In the post records, sandwiched between such mundane things as requisitions for water-buckets or commissary supplies, one would read of atrocious murders committed by the Moros; piratical expeditions headed off, and their instigators punished; or attempted slave-raids against some neighbouring island."

When the Americans left, it was occupied by the Philippine Marines. When the Marines moved inland, the area was occupied by civilians. While still a military garrison, the area houses Christian families of the military personnel. The Costelo family still lives in the same area and the Costelo Store is a local institution.

Today, Muslim and Christian families live as neighbors peacefully. Aside from the overgrown acacia trees, nothing is left of the Kuta' Kastila'.

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